Walking at night in Guangzhou, one felt like the world was somehow magical. Along Jiangnan North Avenue a string of luxurious wedding shops is punctuated by alleyways that lead back into a maze of mysterious courtyards, as though one could slip into a narrow village of workshops. All was quiet except for the passing traffic. Windows were lit up and the bright colours spread a glow into the street. Covered with sheets for the night, many of the
mannequins became odd creatures posing behind the glass.
Further up the avenue, late shoppers moved past open stores and restaurants. Emanating music, a side road led to an open space where an opera was being performed as basketball was played under artificial lights. Relaxed people paid no attention to the curious foreigners.

On another day, we walked along the Shangxiajiu commercial
pedestrian zone past Liwan Plaza as crowds of after-work
shoppers filled the street lined with clothing stores. Here was
the modern image of a Chinese people with a global aspiration
to material, branded affluence. As darkness fell, our walk turned away from the crowds into a neighbourhood of old buildings,
tiny workshops and only the occasional cyclist. Once again the
massive city felt like a small town.